If you’re a fan of Japanese onsens then I bet you’ve heard about the famous Kusatsu Onsen. Located in Gunma Prefecture, this old town has been part of the long standing onsen culture in Japan, even dating back to hundreds of years. Although nowadays, a mixture of old and new can be seen throughout the town as proof of changing times, a distinct character of Kusatsu is still being preserved by the local people.
I must admit, I’ve been to many onsen towns around Japan and when I arrived at the central town area in Kusatsu I understood why it was always top in Japan’s onsen town rankings. There is just a large abundance of onsen water that flows beautifully in their crafted Yubatake that was just mesmerizing to look at. The town is just beside Mt. Kusatsu-Shirane, an active volcano in the Joshin-etsu kogen national park, and it is mainly the reason for the town’s abundant sulfuric hot springs.
Normally the main line of the hot springs are very very hot, with the onsen water temperature reaching up to 90°C! This cannot be used for bathing so a man-made wooden structure, known as the iconic Yubatake, was built where the onsen water flows through wooden channels in an attempt to dissipate the heat. The temperature is then brought down to around 50°C but it is still too hot for people to use. So, another method used in Kusatsu Onsen is the “Yumomi”. You might have seen this famous scene where people use long wooden boards and try to mix the onsen, mixing to release the heat and cool it to bathing temperatures. Since it’s a very tiring process of continuously moving the wooden board through the water, it has evolved into a festive ritual where people dance, sing and take turns in mixing the onsen water.
Located just next to the Yubatake, the Netsunoyu is a place where you can watch the Yumomi performance, and I highly recommend this to fully enjoy the Kusatsu experience.
You might wonder why they don’t just add water to cool it down. This is towards the desire to preserve all the wonderful mineral properties in the onsen. Bathing in Kusatsu Onsen has been known for its healing properties and diluting it will weaken all the health benefits it brings.
With the town’s popularity, there are many Japanese Inns called Ryokans to choose for your stay. Most ryokans have their in-house onsen, some also offer private onsens for guests who are not comfortable bathing in public. In case you wish to explore the town and have dinner instead, restaurants get full quickly so I suggest making reservations beforehand.
Kusatsu Onsen has three main public bathing areas; Otakinoyu, Gozanoyu, and Sai-no-Kawara Rotenburo (Open-air Bath). Feel free to explore and try each one as you like. Each one has its distinct points which is fun to try especially when you love onsens like me. One fun thing about Nishi-no-Kawara is that they have mixed bathing days. Yes, you get to enjoy the onsen with friends and family together. Don’t be alarmed though, you need to wear bathing wear which can be rented.
If you’re in need for a relaxing vacation, I think Kusatsu Onsen might be a wonderful place for you to visit. Let me know if you tried the mixed onsen bath! It’s such a rarity nowadays. There are still some places that offer mixed bathing (if you know where to look). I’m quite happy Kusatsu Onsen has it and I think it’s wonderful to experience the onsen together with friends and family.
